Italy Trip

September 28, 2023

Up at 3:45am.  Took Uber to the airport.  Easy peasy.  First stop Atlanta.   Got to Milan without any trouble.   Took a bit of decifering to find our bus to the hotel but very manageable.  Our first hotel room was exactly as expected.  Fine but a little small.  All is good. Started our tour with a trip to the Duomo Cathedral    Built in 1386 it has the second largest pipe organ in the world   There is one bigger in Germany   Very beautiful and the details are amazing.

September 29, 2023

Toured the Duomo di Milano.  The cathedral took nearly six centuries to complete: construction began in 1386, and the final details were completed in 1965.

Thought you might want a peak at our apartment.  2 bed 1 bath.  We use the 2nd bedroom to store our stuff.  Works perfectly.  Only small issue is no shower.  That is new to us.  Also had our first gin and tonic today. 

We went to several very historic places in Milan.  Basilica of St Ambrosia built in the 1300s or at least that is when it was started.  There were several crypts with bodies on display.  Never saw that in a church before.  

Later in the day took a tour that included all these same spots   Was nice to hear the history of the area this time   PLUS we took a tour of the church that houses the picture of the last supper and the crusifiction.  Now that was amazing. 

October 1, 2023

Heading on a road trip today to lake como.   10 hours but it supposed to be great.  First we take a 2 hour bus ride to the town of Como.  Then a 2.5 hour boat ride to Bellagio then a short ferry ride across the lake to pick up a bus to Lugano I Switzerland. The scenery was amazing.  If we did it again we would drive to Como.  Take the boat to Bellagio and stay one night.  Then come back to Milan.  Would leave out Lugano.  Nice city but we were only there long enough to buy chocolate.   

Most of these pictures are from the boat ride   Great way to view the lake.  There are too many to post.  It was fantastic!

These are from walking in the city of Bellagio.  This was lunch in Bellagio.  Teresa and I both had perch with risotto.   Apparently Milan area is famous for this dish.   It was note worthy.   Perch was lightly breaded and pan fried.  The risotto was cooked with lime zest which gave it a very fresh flavor. 

October 2, 2023

Today we road trip to Venice.  Successfully navigated our first train ride in Italy.  Very proud!

We got in around lunchtime and did some exploring.  First a very frustrating hike to find our apartment.  This place is a maze of small streets.  You can’t get anywhere without Google maps.  We found our little 2 bedroom 1 bath apartment.  It is quaint but just right for us.   Only issue is it has no shower.  We will survive.  Went exploring after we dropped off our stuff.  This town has so much history.  However it is expected to sink into the Adriana Sea in 75 years.   Get here fast if you want to experience something like nothing else you will ever see.

October 3, 2023

 In Venice for the first full day.  Heading to Murino island to tour some glass blowing shops.  

We went to the original glass company for a tour (omg)

Fascinating to watch them work.  It’s a dying art though.  Young people don’t want to be master glass blowers anymore. It’s a shame.  Over 100 glass blowing companies on the one island.  Murano was initially settled by the Romans and from the sixth century.  The company that provided our tour is a family business and been around for 60 years.  They expect to go out of business in the next 15 years because they will no longer have master glass blowers.  They will all be retired and/or dead. 

Dinner at Restaurant Central Pizzeria,  the drink is a dessert drink called sgroppino which is Prosecco lemon sorbet and vodka.   We try to find these at every meal but not everyone makes them.   Might be a Venice thing.

October 4, 2023

Today we walked to an area of Venice where the residents live and work.  Supposed to be less crowded but we were not the only ones with this idea.  It was still busy with tourists. 

Took a tour of the Doge’s palace built in 1340.  The Doge was the supreme authority of the republic of Venice.  Learned all about the Venetian government and political system.   I came to this realization, all forms of government throughout history have had good leaders and horrible leaders.   And yet the society’s still live on typically.   The issues Venice people faced in the 1400’s are the same ones the USA faces today.  In fact some of our government structure was taken from Venice.   Moral of the story, don’t watch any news!   Btw, they had a jail in the palace.  I thought that was the coolest part.

We ended the day with a gondola ride.  The ride was nice    Would not have missed it but I have to say there should be rules they have to follow.   1) don’t talk to the other drivers incessantly while paddling your group   2) don’t be on your cell phone.

First night we went out for pizza.   I am writing a blog post dedicated to food so I will not provide details here.

October 5, 2023

Took a guided tour today.     Two hour tour of the city.  Very interesting, learned about the various styles of architecture in Venice. Also a bit about some of the many churches in the city.  Ended with a visit to Saint Marks Basilica.  Ended the day with a fantastic meal at a restaurant in a small square that we believed is frequented by locals mostly.  More on the food in the food post.

 October 6,  2023

We arrived in Florence today.  Took the train from Venice.  Really simple actually. Our Vrbo is a few blocks away from the city center which is great since we are living amongst the local folks.  Spent the day walking the city. Stopped by a few local shops. That was fun.  One shop was a pottery shop. We watched the owner on her wheel for a while.  The other was an artist who made very unique art which I can’t explain yet.  Will update the blog when I can explain it.  Also went to a school for students learning how to work with leather. Very interesting and I bought a new belt.

Now for the meal…Teresa had ravioli and I had testaroli with meat and mushrooms.  Testaroli is the oldest form of pasta.  It is shaped in circular sheets much like a pizza would be.   Then pressed flat sort of like making a taco.   It is thicker than other pasta and delicious!

October 7, 2023

Thought I would give you a peek at our apartment.  Small but clean and this one has a shower.  We actually live above a restaurant but we did not frequent it.

We went up in a bell tower.   Over 400 steps.  Would not recommend it only because it was a lot of work and at the top the view was obstructed by wire fence as you can see in the pictures.   We also went in a cathedral dome where we got some of the nice city pictures.  No fencing there.

We went to several wonderful palaces one monuments.   Certainly the most impressive was the museum where we got to see the original statue of David.  That was amazing.

 October 8, 2023

Today we walk the streets and take a hop on hop off so we can cover the entire city to see what else there is to visit.  Note to self. If there is a hop on hop off in the city you are visiting always do this first. You really get to know the city.  Many of these came from Baboli gardens which was a huge garden attached to a local palace.  The garden was not well kept but the property itself was very cool.

October 9, 2023

Rented a car and drove from Florence to Tuscany and checked into our villa.  The trip was not too bad.  Couple of wrong turns but Google map is a godsend.   Spent the afternoon relaxing at the villa and taking in the sights.  Even took a swim.  The accomodations are stunning.

We went to an off site restaurant for dinner.   Arrived at 8pm and we were the only folks in the place.  Meal was good though.  Our hotel recommended it because it was close.  We didn’t want to drive far. We will venture out tomorrow.  I had pigeon.   It was tasty.   Teresa had ravioli.

 October 10, 2023

Ok so not every day can be perfect.  Today was not a perfect day but we still enjoyed ourselves.  Intended to drive to Siena to check out the town and maybe see a winery.   The drive was 90 minutes of windy roads with crazy drivers who pass cars going around s curves.  Almost killed 2.  When we got to Siena we discovered a very large busy city with no place to park.   We got the hell out of there.

So we went to Castellina, a small quaint village that was not so intimidating to walk around, visited a castle and a church and grabbed a bite to eat.   At this point we were both not feeling well.  After the Castellina tour we went back to the villa for a swim in the pool.  Thought we would feel better but we didn’t.  Ended up in bed early and no dinner.  Not sure if it was something we ate or the anxiety of being in a large city and not being able to get around or what.   Next morning we were rested and feeling fine.

October 11, 2023

It’s a new day with new wonders to explore.  Spent the day in Radar in Chianti.  Walked around the beautiful little town, grabbed a bite to eat and explored a vineyard with a wine tasting.   Brought back some vermouth that I am excited to try with friends.

October 12, 2023

Today we finally get to go on a balloon ride and in Tuscany no less.   We have booked several flights over the years and they all got cancelled.  Can’t wait to take the ride.

After the balloon ride we went back to our villa to chill by the pool.   Ate dinner at the villa.  It was just ok.  Probably won’t do that again.

 October 13, 2023

Relocated to another villa in Tuscany today.  Had to do some errands along the way.  Car wash laundry, you know, standard stuff you have to do even while traveling.  Teresa and I are getting rather good at operating various contraptions without being able to read the instructions.   Thank god for pictures.  We have figured out how to pay for parking, pumped gas, washed cloths, washed the car, pay tolls on the highway, pay to use the water closet, navigate one way streets with too many signs and lights.  I highly recommend you get Apple Pay set up on your Apple Watch before your next trip.   If it weren’t for Apple Pay our car would still be dirty and we would be living in a parking lot in San Gimignano.   Technology ain’t all bad!

Our new villa is very nice.  Easier to get to than the last.   Here are a few pics.  Seems every place we go is nicer than the last.   No surprise to Vicki but we are finding we like the simple comforts that don’t exist in every accommodation like fresh towels, sheets changed more frequently, a shower, etc…   Something for us to consider as we plan new trips.

October 14, 2023

Today we Vespa!!  We were supposed to be with another couple but they canceled so it was us with our tour guide.   Traveled through the country side looking at the scenery.  Even got treated to a wine tasting and lunch.   It was fantastic.  Enough so we bought a case and are having it shipped home.   Not just wine but balsamic vinegar (30 yrs old).   Can’t wait to put it on ice cream.

The winery (Tenuta Torciano) was celebrating the end of harvest so there was a party for employees outside.  Even had a couple folks drive in with their shiny cars.

This is La Ribollita soup.  Bread soup with vegetables and beans.   Out of this world.   Tom S and I had this years ago in Florence.   I tried to make it once.  Will try again when I get home (a house in the US).

After the Vespa tour we went to San Gimignano to view the towers.   This town was established hundreds of years BC.   Most of the remaining towers are from 1200’s-1300’s.

 October 15, 2023

Took some more pictures of our villa so I thought I would share.

Today we went for a drive to Impruneta today.   Heard it is a great town to visit and walk around so we did.   There was a festival in progress so we checked it out.   All of a sudden Teresa is into festivals.   I think she just likes people watching.

Lunch at Salvadonica in Mercatale.  It is a small hotel with a restaurant that has very high ratings.   Food was great, service sucked.  Teresa had a beef stew with black pepper and beans.   Tasted great.   Too much pepper for Teresa.   I had pasta stuffed with meat stew.   It was delicious.

Dinner was great too.   Ate at Cantinetta del Nonno.  Way too much food and wine today.   Tomorrow we fast.

 October 16, 2023

Today we ventured into San Casciano in Val di Pesa to walk the streets.   They are having a festival and we want to see what it is like.   Turns out it is very similar to festivals in Cedarburg Wisconsin.  Just people selling their stuff.   Teresa would never be interested in this in USA but she loves seeing it in Italy.

Stopped at Antica Fiaschetteria del Chianti for lunch.   Teresa had spaghetti with garlic tomatoe sauce which was great.  I had sausage with roasted potatoes.   Also great.  The wine was so good we brought a bottle home for dinner tonight.   Our plan is to go to the spa for a couple of hours this evening then eat a light supper with wine nuts olives chips and chocolate.   Works for me.

 October 17, 2023

Today we travel to Rome.  Another successful train ride through Italy.   Good to get rid of the rental car.

Sorry the Rome posts are late but our time in Rome was packed full of adventure.   I have to say from a historical perspective Rome is the most amazing of all the places we visited.   Not taking anything from the other places.  They are all our favorites but each offered a different perspective on Italy.  

Our hotel is small but newer and clean.  I provided a couple of pictures.  I did not take pictures inside the room but I think you get the point.

After getting settled we wondered around the city a bit.   Took a hop on hop off bus so we could get comfortable before all the real site seeing we will start tomorrow.

October 18, 2023

First full day in Rome.  Fist stop the Vatican.   Remember the Vatican is not in Italy.  It is a separate territory.  We were reminded many times.   It is very cool though.   We intended to go to St Peter’s Basilica today but the Pope was there so no visitors allowed.  Will get that done on another day.  It is really tough selecting pictures for these posts.   There are so many pictures in Rome there is no way to include them all.

We walked around St Peter’s square even though we couldn’t go inside.

This evening we took a food tour where a guide took us to 7 different places to eat real Italian food.  A couple of restaurants a bakery a butcher some street food vendors.  It was fantastic.

October 19, 2023

Rome continued.  Post under construction.  The coliseum and other stuff.

October 20, 2023

More Rome.  Post under construction.

October 22, 2023

Today we arrived in Positano on the Amalfi Coast.  It was a bit frustrating.   First a 2 hour bus ride, then to a ferry in Salerno but due to weather the ferry was shut down.  Taxi was an option for $250 for a two hour ride.   Not doing that.  Bought tickets on the bus.  So did lots of other people.   When the bus came only about 10% of the people waiting could fit in the bus.   We were not in that group. Not to mention the luggage we had to get on the bus with us.  Teresa is resourceful though.   She decided to pick out a random couple from the group to 1) see if they speak English.  2) see if they want to split the taxi fare with us and hop in a taxi for a 90 minute drive up the mountain.   She nailed it on the first attempt.  Now we head to Positano.  Another very windy road in Italy with crazy drivers.   That includes our taxi driver. 

This is our best meal so far.  Also most expensive.  This is a very expensive place to eat in but this meal was worth it.   More on that later.

October 23, 2023

First full day in Positano.  Not a lot of pictures today.  It was a rest day.   Went to the pool.  Read books .  Walked on the beach and just relaxed.

October 24, 2023

Today we head to Capri for the day.   Taking a ferry to the island then a boat around the island then walking the city.  We also went to Anacapri to take a chair lift to the top of the mountain.   Weather was foggy but still beautiful up there.

October 25, 2023

A rain day.   First day in the last 2 months of travel that we got completely rained out.   Read in our room.   Read in the hotel lobby.  Had drinks in our room.   Basically a boring day but we got by.  Went out for a bite to eat and got rained on.  No worries.

 October 26, 2023

Today was a big day.   We hiked the path of the gods.  In all we hiked about 8 hours today.  This was the most scenic hike we have ever done and we have done some really cool hikes.  It was probably the most treacherous too.  Following a rocky path along the mountain with no guards at all.  The pictures tell it all.   Took a taxi from Positano to Nocelle and picked up the trail there.  Supposed to be about a 7 mile hike from Nocelle to Bomerano.  I little town we would have lunch in.  Then hike back to Nocelle and pick up the bus to Positano.  In the end instead of the bus we walked to Positano from Nocelle.  It was about one mile.  Kicker was it was all downhill on a bunch of stairs.  Literally all steps from Nocelle to Positano.  They say 1700 of them but I didn’t count.  Then another mile on the road to walk back to city center in Positano where we were staying.  Adding it all up it was over ten miles and a lot of fun.

So during one part of the hike there was a fork in the trail sort of.  Not really because some brush blocked one of the paths but it was the route Teresa wanted to take so we stepped over the brush.  After a bit I said Teresa this is not right.  This path is more like a goat trail.  Before we could turn back we had proof.

We had a good lunch on our hike.  Teresa said her bolognese sauce was the best bolognese sauce she had the entire trip.  Sorry I didn’t get pictures.  I did however get them at dinner were we had our new best meal of the trip.  Appetizer raw fish with peppers.

October 27, 2023

Today we planned a bus trip to Amalfi but the road is closed so we took the bus to Sorrento.  It is another small waterfront town but with no steps to climb.  We walked the city and went down to the harbor.  Very nice, bigger than Positano.  We like our place better.  All and all a relaxing day touring.

We had lunch on the dock.  I had a bunch of fried fish.  Tasted good but I don’t really like picking bones.  Teresa had, you guessed it ravioli.  It was good but a wave splashed our table and sh got sauce on her blouse.

October 28, 2023

Today was a rest/relaxation day.  Walked around town then sat at the pool to enjoy the sun. 

October 29, 2023

Our last day in Positano.  Went by bus to the town of Amalfi for the day.  Very nice visit.  Even toured a paper mill from the 13th century.  Took the ferry back home.  Our last ferry ride of the trip.

 October 30, 2023

Left the Amalfi Coast today.  Took a shuttle to the train station in Naples.  Then a train to Bologna.  This part of the trip is last minute.  We had a couple extra days we did not know what to do with.  Originally, we intended to travel back to Milan, hang out for a couple of days then fly out of Milan.  Upon further investigation that plan changed.  Our plan is to spend a couple nights in Modena before head back to Milan to fly out of the country and back to Ellies place in Arizona.  We intend to take a day trip to Medena and Parma.  Bologna is supposed to have really great food so let's see.  We have had some really great food so far on our trip but we can't pass up this opportunity to get some great balsamic vinegar (only produced in Modena, some great Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, (only produced in Parma) and some great fresh meats that are best in this region of the world.

This is our dinner in Bologna.  The name is Ristorante Bolognese.  You guessed it.  We went here because they are supposed to have really good Bolognese.  Turns out they really do.  It was outstanding.

 October 31, 2023

Today we hopped a train and went to Modena as promised.  Really great little city.  We also had a special treat.  We got to go to a balsamic vinegar plant.  I say plant, it was really someone's home.  Literally, this stuff is produced in the attic of a large estate in the middle of town.  It is stored in the attic because this climate is best.  Apparently, balsamic needs the warm weather in the spring and summer and the cold weather in the fall and winter.  Balsamic Vinegar is strictly regulated in Italy.  I must come from this town to be authentic.  Not surprising that the stuff we get in the US is not authentic.  They just stole the name.  What was not expected is that even the vinegar we get at restaurants in Italy are not authentic.  Apparently because it is just too expensive and there is not that much of it mad each year.  The place we visited can only make 4000 bottles per year.  It is very controlled by the Italian government.  Turns out the Italian government tightly controls a bunch of stuff related to food.  In order to be authentic there must be a DOP stamp on the bottle.  And guess what, all bottles are the same size.  They are purchased by vinegar producers from the Italian government.  I could go on for hours talking about Balsamic.  It was an amazing visit.  If anyone is really interested reach out and we can talk in person.  Otherwise, you might find this boring.  I think Balsamic production is far more interesting than wine production.

Parm cheese is also controlled by the government.

We wondered around Modena for an hour or so after the vinegar tour on the recommendation of the master producer who gave us the tour.  He was right.  The city center is small but really cool.

Then we went to Parma to walk around.  Had lunch there too which was a smart move.  Our lunch we fabulous.  I would say top 5 meals of the trip.  I had a homemade pasta with Parm cream they call it.  Similar to Alfredo but this shit was out of this world.  After I fast for 30 days from this trip I intend to try and duplicate this pasta dish.  No kidding, it was out of this world.  Teresa had a risotto with pumpkin.  It was great too.  The app was parm cheese wrapped in prosciutto.

Dinner back in Bologna.  This was our last night before we start the treck home so this is the last really good meal.  It did not disappoint.